Berlin Fashion Week (BFW) is a spectacle of extremes, with its latest edition showcasing a stark contrast between scorching heat and bone-chilling cold. Amidst the freezing temperatures, guests braved the elements in platform heels and fur coats, their spirits high and the front row packed. The event, organized by the Fashion Council Germany, emphasizes the evolution of designers' work over time, as evidenced by the return of industry veterans and the increasing number of new visitors each season. Christiane Arp, chair of the council, highlights the importance of BFW in fostering discovery and new ideas on the international fashion stage. The event's purpose is to challenge the existing system, both politically and industrially, by utilizing fashion as a universal language to promote positive change.
One of the standout aspects of BFW is its growing international recognition. The Reference Studios' Intervention showcase has played a pivotal role in this transformation, inviting globally recognized brands to participate. This initiative has not only enriched the BFW calendar but has also repositioned Berlin as a prominent international fashion platform. This season, notable newcomers included John Lawrence Sullivan, Kenneth Ize, and Dagger, showcasing a diverse range of styles. Menswear label GmbH continued its on-schedule presentations, attracting an international audience, while Buzigahill made a return to Intervention after its debut last season.
Mumi Haiati, CEO of Reference Studios, expresses optimism about the platform's future, envisioning a continued presence of consistent brands while making room for innovation. He hopes to see major German companies invest in BFW, similar to their support for fashion councils in Paris and Milan. This investment could create a positive 'halo effect' for the city.
Many BFW mainstay brands have experienced commercial growth through retail, wholesale, and new market access. Haderlump and Richert Beil expanded their operations by opening stores in Berlin, while SF1OG, launched in 2019, anticipates a 50% sales growth for FW26, with a steady increase in wholesale sales in the Asian market. The fashion council facilitated trips to South Korea and Japan, connecting designers with local buyers and press, fostering relationships that are crucial for sales.
Marke, a brand founded by Mario Keine, found the trip to Japan beneficial, despite it being outside the normal ordering cycle. Keine believes that building trust and contact with Japanese buyers is essential, as they prefer to see the brand multiple times before making a purchase. SF1OG's co-founder and CEO, Jacob Langemeyer, also participated in the trip, introducing textured wool plaid shirts made with a Japanese supplier he met during the visit. This collaboration has led to a significant improvement in the quality of their collections.
For Orange Culture, a Lagos-based brand that made its debut at BFW last season, the event has already translated into sales. Founder and creative director Adebayo Oke-Lawal notes that while Nigerians are excited by the techniques, Berlin clients are captivated by the color and find it novel. This has resulted in local clients becoming repeat customers, incorporating Orange Culture pieces into their Berlin wardrobe.
BFW introduced new formats to the calendar, expanding beyond the traditional runway shows. Reference Studios partnered with Tedx to host conversational fireside chats, featuring renowned speakers such as Edward Buchanan, the GmbH duo, and René Célestin from Obo agency. The experiential pop-up Doofer Street Market, a parody of Dover Street Market, was launched in partnership with Live From Earth, showcasing street culture exhibitions and performances by DJs. Mumi Haiati envisions BFW as a multidisciplinary platform, open to various audiences, emphasizing the importance of showcasing diverse aesthetics and design practices.
Exhibitions like 'Der Berliner Salon' and 'Raum Berlin' continued to highlight young talent and brands not participating in runway collections. Christiane Arp emphasizes the significance of these different formats in clarifying the event's workings and providing a platform for designers to express their unique visions. The council's approach is collaborative, tailoring formats to the desires of brands, as Scott Lipinski explains.
Trends at BFW FW26 showcased experimental shirting and intricate details. John Lawrence Sullivan presented sharp tailoring with mesh chainmail layers and elbow-length leather gloves, drawing inspiration from Norwegian metal culture. Marke's collection featured ties made from shirt sleeves, symbolizing 'strangulation by capitalism' and the loss of individuality in a conformist society. Kasia Kucharska returned with modular shirts that tied around the body, inspired by her motherhood experience.
Balletshofer blended tailoring with sportswear, focusing on construction that molds to the body. Details such as intentionally creased jackets and pants, and a collarless blazer with a waist seam added subtle definition. Beading and fringing, prevalent in recent seasons in Paris and Milan, were also featured. Orange Culture showcased skirts and blouses made from fringed materials in burnt orange and emerald green, creating a swishing effect as models walked the runway.
Designers at BFW FW26 addressed themes of privacy, identity, and political tensions. Berlin brands are known for their political and social commentary, and this season's collections reflected these concerns. Designers explored the impact of social media on privacy and identity, with collections inspired by online hatred and misinformation. Marke's collection, for instance, played with notions of masculinity, drawing parallels between the present moment and the shift from Rococo excess to post-revolutionary uniformity.
Andrej Gronau's collection imagined the home as a dollhouse, where identity is negotiated, with plush belts and '60s interior palettes. GmbH's collection, titled Döppleganger, referenced history repeating itself, inspired by 1980s Berlin club culture and the freedom it represented. The event's spirit of reinvention and its ability to reflect the city's rebellious and political nature make BFW a platform for designers to challenge societal norms and explore new creative directions.
